There is a significant difference between the two photographs, day and night have there own challenges. the hardest challenge was photographing at night, this is because using default and common camera settings like f3.8 1/250 ISO 400 - these settings would capture the subject matter correctly for myself. Because I have gotten used to night photography realizing its quite important to tweak the camera settings to trap as much light into the sensor as possible because without that the image will be underexposed and this could result in little detail and grain/ noise.
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The camera settings to photograph the same subject at different times of day should give perspective in how the camera settings, primarily: ISO, shutter-speed (exposure time) and f-stop. The night shoot: f5.6 5/2 seconds ISO 6400 on a 35mm camera,
upon reflection, My night shoot settings were far to high relating to the ISO, in hindsight i should have set my tripod up and used a lower ISO to avoid noise because I was disappointed to find my night photograph had lots of noise and I found that unsuccessful, in response to my reflection, I photographed the night shoot again
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The day photograph had some challenged as it can be seen the background was white out which caused the image to lose any sky details, having the sky overexposed resulted in the subject-matter being highlighted because of the lack of sky. : f/11, 1/10 seconds, ISO 200 on 35mm camera. I have been considering the possibility that the noise and loss of detail was because I used a 35mm Camera lens perhaps if i were to redo the day and night shoot I would use a different lens maybe a 50mm or 18-55mm lens so i have the ability to focus on distant subject matters.
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final outcome
each HDR was done by photographing one location- on my tripod at roughly 10 or 12 different shutter-speeds, the idea is to get a underexposed image of the subject, to make the dark shadows and tones more prominent and progressively over the 10 -12 or however many images, bring the shutter-speed down: example -> starting with something like f.5.6 Iso 100 1/1000 and progressively change the shutter-speed from 1/1000 -> 1/750 -> 1/600 -> 1/500 1/300 1/250 -> etc... until you are happy with the result of the overexposed image, with the highlights and whites being bright, than combining these images together to get a more dynamic range in one photograph compared to taking a singular photograph alone.
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Above is a screenshot of Lightroom classic where you have the ability to merge the collection of images together digitally there were certain instances where the auto-align setting provided a more accurate result because any shake or movemenet from the camera could result in a ghost effect where there is a very low opacity area in the photograph, mostly seen when photographing moving subject. I have found doing HDR photographs very entertaining and will be looking forward to creating more in the future using digital programs such as adobe lightroom classic
selecting all the photographs you would like to merge together into an HDR you than go to Photo>photo-merge> HDR
depending on the situations it is up to your own thoughts to decide whether to include de-ghosting, It removes any motion movement, an example is with people or cars. however note that the higher the setting the longer it takes to process, and it isn't necessary every time.
It also has the auto align feature this is very helpful because it aligns each photograph together, making it seem less, sometimes whilst using a tripod a slight wind could move the camera slightly where your naked eye wont notice but the settings will correct this error in judgement and automatically do it, however if you want to do the aligning manually you have the freedom, just unselect the auto align tool.
Joining multiple images together to create a panoramic photographic outcome, I decided to use different subject matters in order to give each piece its own individual focus. My bridge panoramic photograph was done to focus on the architecture, graffiti of the bridge.
I decided for my next panoramic, wanted to focus on the roads direction, having a cross junction was an interesting subject to me because I thought the perspectives of the roads were eye catching.
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I photographed using my prime lens so that i could keep the same focal distance for the photograph, I photographed x amount of times for each final outcome and manually realigned them using adobe photoshop, I love using this technique because it adds more digital creating into my work and I have been inspired by the likes of micheal hallet and David hockney you have the ability to completely recreate what you see and bend reality to your own will and i love that.